Return-Path: robot-board@oberon.com Received: by media.mit.edu (5.57/DA1.0.4.amt) id AA10103; Thu, 1 Sep 94 15:36:14 -0400 Received: from (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by oberon.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) with SMTP id PAA23775; Thu, 1 Sep 1994 15:35:49 -0400 Date: Thu, 1 Sep 1994 15:35:49 -0400 Message-Id: <9409011932.AA18091@pepper.Eng.Sun.COM> Errors-To: gkulosa@oberon.com Reply-To: cmcmanis@scndprsn.FirstPerson.COM Originator: robot-board@oberon.com Sender: gkulosa@oberon.com Precedence: bulk From: cmcmanis@scndprsn.FirstPerson.COM (Chuck McManis) To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: Cool miniboard Connectors X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0b -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas {Copy of my post to comp.robotics} I have 8 miniboards, and because of this, have built *many* miniboard type connectors for sensors and motors. I thought I'd pass on some information on some cool miniboard compatible connectors. If you have a miniboard or have read the documentation for the miniboard you will recall Fred Martin's excellent exposition on how to construct connectors that plug into the miniboard's connector headers. Basically the sequence is this: a) Cut off a set of either 3 or 4 pins from a male connector header b) remove pin 2. c) remove the 'nubs' along the sides of the pins d) solder wires to the pins you need e) put a drop of hot glue on as a strain relief. f) put some heat shrink tubing around the assembly. This is easily the most cost effective way to make connectors because the header strips price out to about $0.16 per connector. With hot glue and heat shrink tubing your probably still under $0.25. Now, in my opinion, the resulting connectors don't look "professional" (how can anything with hot glue blobbed on it look pro :-)) and it is an art to getting them just right so that they don't interfere with neighboring connectors. An alternative is the Berg Microlatch connector. These are pin and housing connectors like standard "molex" connectors and are much more expensive but may be more robust in the long term. These connectors consist of crimp pins and a plastic housing. You crimp and then solder your wires to the pins, then insert them into the housing and then you're done. Newark Electronics sells them and these are the part numbers: Newark Berg part # part # Description cost -------- ------- ------------------------ ---- 89F4597 65039-034 3 slot housing (motors) .65 89F4596 65039-033 4 slot housing (sensors) .71 89F4586 48116-000 Male crimp pins .83 (each!) As it turns out you can only get the _gold_ male pins from Newark, the tin pins are less expensive but I haven't found a supplier for them yet. And Newark doesn't seem to offer a volume discount on the male pins. So a an active sensor connector (3 pins, housing) $3.20 A passive sensor connector (2 pins, housing) $2.37 A motor connector (2 pins, housing) $2.31 Enough to fill all connectors (24 sensors + 4 motors) $86.04 Also Newark sells a crimp tool for $654 (which I can't believe _anyone_ buys these) but you can crimp them yourself with a pair of needle nose pliers fairly easily. Clearly its a lot more money, but the resulting connectors would seem to be a bit more reliable than the hand built ones. They also look better and always fit next to each other on your board. Remember though that appearance is always in the eye of the beholder. --Chuck