From: Erik Green <longshot@krypton.mankato.msus.edu>
Message-Id: <199505282033.PAA08493@krypton.mankato.msus.edu>
Subject: Parts/assembly
To: handyboard@media.mit.edu
Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 15:33:27 -0500 (CDT)
Content-Type: text
Content-Length: 3335      


  Ok, I've been doing some assembly (well, Ok, a lot).  Here's my status
so far:

  Serial/power interface assembled, two parts problems: Electrolytic
didn't fit (the 47uf ones) so I fitted a radial substitute from Rat
Shack.  Oddly enough, the axial design from RS was the same size as
the ones that came from Mark.  Only the radial was smaller.  I stood the
new caps on end over one lead hole, and covered the other lead with
some spare wire insulation before running it to the other hole.  Also,
the power connectors have the wrong pin configuration.  I briefly
considered redrilling, but as I note later I'm going to order some
parts from JDR, so I'll get a replacement from them.  Other than that,
the Serial/charger board is assembled.

   On the main board, I have all sockets, resistors, diodes, LEDs, the
piezo speaker, the VR, and the phone jack soldered.  I can't seem to 
find the fuse that was supposed to be in the kit.  What do these look
like?  The SPI 6-header has wires too large for the holes in the board.
I'm thinking of getting a new one, since I don't want to risk the board
at this point.  The resistor packs appear to be too large (too many pins).
I did go out and buy some 16 pin sockets, as I'm more comfortable soldering
those than the pin replacements mark sent me. 

  So, other than parts problems (No, I'm not picking on Mark.  He did
quite a job getting all these together, and as he selflessly sold his
own board for the happiness of another, I can't blame him for some
bad fits) the board assembles easily.  I got most of it done in a few 
hours yesterday.  I got ahold of a jewelers saw today, so tonight I'll
cut some headers and get those done.  I'm going to be placing an
order from JDR most likely for new rpacks, spi connector, power connectors,
and for one chip that wasn't quite what it was supposed to be.

  My advice to anybody that hasn't started soldering yet is to start
with the stuff that lays on the board (low profile) and get it all
_very_ carefully placed by using the traces as landmarks.  If
something doesn't appear to naturally fit, you may have the wrong part
in your hand.  Note this especially for some of the resistors.  There
are 47 ohm ones in two sizes.  Use one of the 1/2 watt (large) ones on
the charger board, near the phone jack, and the other on the right
side middle area of the main board.  Use the smaller ones elsewhere.
Once the low profile stuff is mounted, use those parts as landmarks
for placing the other parts.  Keep an eye on how hard it will be to
place smaller parts when you're installing sockets, if you do them
first.  Try to work from the inside of the board out.  To tell when a
connection is properly soldered, look on the component side of the
board.  A very small amount of solder should have flowed through to
the other side of the hole.  Generally, the leads for the parts get
bent close to the part.  There are a few parts that this won't work
on, but they should be obvious.  Be very careful with the induction
core (little red wire wrapped cylinder on the UL of the board).  The
leads will pull out part of the way if you're not careful when you
bend them.

FYI, I'm using a 23 watt iron and Rat Shack solder (I know, lousy resin).

Anybody else out there doing assembly?

-Erik

-- 
Erik Green     longshot@krypton.mankato.msus.edu